![]() ![]() It doesn’t matter if you’re a professional photographer or an absolute beginner. Although, it might also be a limitation of your cameras and lenses.Īs a result, Topaz Labs Sharpen AI works for all types of photographers-from landscape and wildlife to street and portrait. It usually comes down to camera shake, the wrong choice of shutter speed, or missing focus. It works straight out of the box with sliders and options for image sharpening and noise reduction.Įvery photographer makes mistakes and has images that could be a bit sharper. Topaz Sharpen AI also has a simple, intuitive interface that anyone can understand. But who has time to learn all about those from scratch? Yes, you might get similar results with an unsharp mask in Adobe Photoshop. But the frequent updates have improved it so much that it’s now the leading sharpening tool on the market. ![]() The original program came out a few years ago, and it wasn’t very good. One example turned a bird’s eye from a blurred mess to a pin-sharp image.Īlso, the idea that the program can somehow “know” what the subject’s focus point was behind or in front… and correct it! That was mind-blowing! The Motion Blur mode was particularly impressive. I read a few reviews and watched a couple of videos online before trying it out. And it’s based on the analysis of millions of images using artificial intelligence. It’s designed to improve sharpness (and reduce noise). Topaz Labs Sharpen AI does exactly what it says. ![]() You can get by with one stop less exposure and get the same brightness in your images.Topaz Photo Ai Review: What You Need to Know About Topaz Sharpen AI Other than the shift of one stop in the range, it appears that the size of the range is unchanged by HDR - it's eleven stops from black to white, with middle grey falling squarely in the middle of the range. So again, 11 total stops from black at 1/2000s to white at 1/2s. For instance, the "correct" exposure was still 1/60s with RGB at 45%. The RGB values were slightly shifted at each EV, but not enough to make a difference. In HDR handheld more the results were similar to the tripod mode. So still 11 stops from black at 1/2000s to white at 1/2s. In HDR tripod mode the "correct" exposure was 1/60s at RGB 47%, The shortest and highest exposures which weren't blown were 1/1000s and 1/4s. So 11 stops from pure black at 1/1000s to pure white at 1s. The longest exposure showing any visual difference from pure white was 1/2s at 99%, with 1s being white at 100%. The shortest exposure showing any visual difference from pure black was 1/500s at 1.5%, with 1/1000 at 0.1%. In Normal mode, the "correct" exposure was 1/30s. Since the lens has some vignetting and the window light also tailed off away from the window, I scanned the central region of each image and took my consensus reading of the RGB values for that area. I viewed the images in LR Classic after reducing Saturation to -100 and used the RGB values along with visual inspection to determine when the image went to all black or all white. It was lit by overcast light through a window. I deliberately defocussed the lens to smooth out the imperfections in the surface I was shooting. From an exposure that yielded middle grey (where the camera said I was exposed "correctly"), I varied the shutter speed faster and slower in full stop increments. Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)Īll shots were f/4, ISO 200 using the 12-100/4 lens at 66mm. To add weight to my thoughts, Bill Claff's excellent photons to photos site provides this nice DR comparison chart: I'm not in the least interested in the extra resolution - just the DR. To prove it to myself, I did some playing with HHHR test images I found on the web and this persuaded me that the technique would offer me something worthwhile. So, I thought that getting a mk iii would be perhaps be worth it for HHHR. But this takes even longer than HDR stacking so it's not something that's sensible for regular use. In fact, you can do HHHR yourself without a EM1.3 simply by firing a burst of images at the same exposure and then using Photoshop or similar to do a "mean" stacking. I knew that HHHR could perhaps provide an alternative since it works by additive stacking of multiple images and this definitely reduces noise/improves SNR. This works pretty well, but it consumes a chunk of storage and takes time to stack on the PC. I often resort to shooting a 5-shot, 5-stop bracket and stacking later in LR (I always shoot raw). I do a lot of landscape and find myself often running out of shadow lifting capability (i.e. ![]()
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